aalii: TIE-DYE. . .

Tie-dye is a process of resist dyeing textiles or clothing which is made from knit or woven fabric, usually cotton; typically using bright colors. It is a modern version of traditional dyeing methods used in many cultures throughout the world. "Tie-dye" can also describe the resulting pattern or an item which features this pattern.

There are many traditional variations of tie-dye around the world, each unique but basically Tie-dye is a way of creating patterns of color by folding, tying, stitching, crumpling or otherwise preparing the fabric to inhibit the flow of the dye into the folds of the fabric. The ties prevent the entire material from being dyed. Dye is then applied to only parts of the material. Designs are formed by applying different colors of dyes to different sections of the wet fabric. The pattern of the folds and where the colors are squirted determines the final design.

In India, the version of Tie-dye is commonly referred to as Bandhini dyeing.

Bandhani began about 5000 years ago, and is the oldest tie and dye tradition that is still practiced. It comes in a variety of designs, colors and motifs that are region-specific. Each district has its own distinct method of Bandhani which makes the pattern recognizable and gives it a different name.

The craftsmen from Rajasthan are easily recognized because they grow the nail of their little finger or wear a small metal ring with a point to facilitate the lifting of cloth for tying.

Who practices this craft in India?

Rajasthan: Jodhpur, Udaipur, Sikar, Jhunjhunu, Churu;

Gujarat: Jamnagar, Bhuj, Mandavi;

Uttar Pradesh: Farukabad.

The Process of Tie-Dye / Bhandini

Tying the Fabric

A clear thin sheet of plastic, which has been pierced with pin holes, is kept over this area of the fabric and, using fugitive colours, an imprint of the desired pattern is transferred onto the fabric. The craftsperson then pulls on a small area of the fabric where each is placed and winds thread tightly around the protruding cloth to form a knot or bhindi. The thread generally used is nylon thread. After tying the knots the fabric is thoroughly washed to remove the imprint.

Dyeing

The cloth is then dyed yellow, or another light color, for two minutes. During this process the small area beneath the thread resists the dye leaving a dot. This is usually carried out in several stages starting with a light color like yellow, then after tying some more knots a darker color is used and so on.

Finishing

After the last dyeing process has been completed the fabric is washed and if necessary, starched. After the fabric is dried, its folds are pulled apart in a particular way releasing the knots and revealing their pattern. The result is a usually deep colored cloth with dots of various colours forming a pattern.