aalii: Shibori. . . (Japanese Tie-Dye technique)

Shibori comes from the Japanese word shiboru, meaning ‘to wring, squeeze or press’. It refers to a variety of ways of embellishing textiles by shaping cloth and securing it before dyeing. Three terms for separate shibori methods have come into international usage: plangi, a Malay-lndonesian word for the process of gathering and binding cloth; bandhini, an Indian term for the same process; and tritik, a Malay-lndonesian word for stitch-resist. The special characteristic of shibori resist is a soft- or blurry-edged pattern. The effect is quite different from the sharp-edged resist obtained with stencil, paste and wax. With shibori the dyer works in concert with the materials, not in an effort to overcome their limitations, but to allow them full expression. And an element of the unexpected is always present.

Who practices this craft?

Shibori is practiced in the urban villages of Delhi, craft clusters of Rajasthan and Bhuj in Gujarat. Most artisans use the rope-tied technique of shibori wherein a rope is tied to a bundle of fabric.

What materials and tools are used in this craft?

Tools: Needles, Threads, Ropes and Dyeing pots;

Materials: Thread, Unbleached Cotton Cloth and Colored Natural Dyes.

What is the Craft process?

Design

As with any creative process, shibori begins with the conceptualization of the design. Though there are certain linear and non-linear patterns that form the basic motif of ashibori design, the process does provide the designer with an unlimited array of combinations within the basic framework.

Stitching

The next level of the process is stitching. With the marking done on the fabric, a running stitch (manually with needle and thread) is made along the design. At the two ends of the thread a small piece of cloth is attached that allow the thread to be pulled from both the ends, thus crushing the fabric.

Tightening

Two people are required, one holding the cloth, the other pulling the two ends of the thread in the opposite direction. The cloth along the thread gets compressed and a knot is then made to bind the cloth and not allow the color to seep into it (the area compressed by the knot) at the time of dyeing. The right amount of pressure is required to tie the knot as a lose loop that can allow the color to percolate into the knot where the color is not required. It is because the entire area on the fabric gets colored other than spot within the knot that the process is referred to as a stitch-resist dying technique.

Dyeing

With the tightening done, the fabric is soaked in a mild soap solution for some time. Thereafter, it is dipped in a bath for dyeing. For preparing the bath, the material to liquid ratio (MLR) should be maintained in the region of 1:20. For example, 1 kg of fabric or yarn requires 20 l of water. A 5 per cent description refers to 50 g of color (or any other chemical) to be dissolved in 20 l of water for 1 kg of fabric or yarn. Apart from indigo, all the other colors are 'hot processes', that is, they require water to be mildly heated while the dyeing process is on. For all the colors the cloth/yarn is to be dyed for 45 minutes

Product categories made with Shibori

Cushions & Throws, Table, Linen, Stoles/Scarves, Bags

VIDEO'S:

Traditional craft - Part 1